I'm not 100% sure, but I don't think that will work. If you were correct, there would be no reason for the circuit to have that reed relay at all in the original design.
The current flowing through the reed relay and the timer operating the conventional relay have to work together. If you bridge the reed, the sequence will be interupted and the indicators will stick on I suspect.
I don't know why a modern LED flasher module shouldn't work, as long as you completely by-pass all the existing circuitry. Leaving any of the OEM circuit in play will lead to some weird effects.
Relay Check Lamp (8598)
- Casey
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Re: Relay Check Lamp (8598)
KIMI 1 : 1st Gen, "hybrid" 1983 silver S2 running gear in a 1985 S3 shell, SORN'd, long term resto project
KIMI 2 : 1st Gen, 1983 silver S2 - now sold to Ian Mothersole on here.
KIMI 3 : 1st Gen, 1983 red S3
Plus a 2004 Full Bridgeported RX-8
KIMI 2 : 1st Gen, 1983 silver S2 - now sold to Ian Mothersole on here.
KIMI 3 : 1st Gen, 1983 red S3
Plus a 2004 Full Bridgeported RX-8
- 84_12a_brap
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Re: Relay Check Lamp (8598)
Oh ok, I see. So I don't need to replace the current flasher relay with an LED one I need to replace the whole circuit with an LED flasher relay. Sorry don't know that much about electronics so learning as I go along!
Now just to confirm so I don't break anything beyond repair. I'll need to cut the R & Q wires on the harness that goes into the CPU, route these through a three pin flasher relay and then run the third pin on the relay to ground, is that correct?
Now just to confirm so I don't break anything beyond repair. I'll need to cut the R & Q wires on the harness that goes into the CPU, route these through a three pin flasher relay and then run the third pin on the relay to ground, is that correct?
- Casey
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Re: Relay Check Lamp (8598)
I can't be 100% certain, but yes, that should work.
If you cut the wires carefully, with enough of a wire tail on the connector end, you can always reconnect the two wires later, to return to stock, or in case there is an unforeseen issue.
If you cut the wires carefully, with enough of a wire tail on the connector end, you can always reconnect the two wires later, to return to stock, or in case there is an unforeseen issue.
KIMI 1 : 1st Gen, "hybrid" 1983 silver S2 running gear in a 1985 S3 shell, SORN'd, long term resto project
KIMI 2 : 1st Gen, 1983 silver S2 - now sold to Ian Mothersole on here.
KIMI 3 : 1st Gen, 1983 red S3
Plus a 2004 Full Bridgeported RX-8
KIMI 2 : 1st Gen, 1983 silver S2 - now sold to Ian Mothersole on here.
KIMI 3 : 1st Gen, 1983 red S3
Plus a 2004 Full Bridgeported RX-8