KIMI 2 - 1983 Series 2

[Casey]

The pair of "Strongarm" rear glass struts arrived today, delayed in customs, where I got stung for an extra £22 in customs duty and handling charges (2 struts and some other bits). Still much cheaper than the SGS units though

They are certainly very strong c.f. the old units! It's very hard to compress them, whereas I can compress the old units very easily.
They look very OEM, so I will try the trick of replacing just the left side only. There are (very vague, but workable) instructions included to refit all the electrical gubbins on the right hand strut, should I need to replace that one too.

Strut size and fittings look spot on - really impressed by the quality!

I've still got some refurb work to do around the hatch area, but hope to refit the glass next week.



Old OEM unit top, new one below:

[Casey]

I had a a problem with one of the electrical connectors on the rear screen so had to repair it. My 25w soldering iron wasn't powerful enough, so ended up having to combine it with an 18w iron to get enough heat to make a good joint to a replacement spade!

A small step, but at least it's progress

Oops, spade missing!


Repaired

[ian65]

those struts look spot on Malcolm, I've just ordered myself a pair ( as the group buy doesn't seem to be happening ) My current original struts are hopeless. Keen to hear how you get on installing them and how well they work.

[Casey]

I can (re)confirm that ONE Strongarm strut on the passenger side is more than strong enough to hold up the hatch on it's own, so I've replaced just that side and re-used the old strut on driver's side. Fitting was easy, the only minor issue was tightening the bolt at the upper end of the arm. The hex head is not quite as deep as the OEM strut on the upper fixing and so a narrow spanner is needed to tighten it sufficiently without fouling the plastic panel (or you can prise off the ball head to get access to tighten). The result looks just like OEM, so I can recommend this fix for anyone with tired struts. I now have one Strongarm strut spare, which is now designated for KIMI 1

I've completed some derusting, applied filler and rattle-can resprayed several areas around the rear hatch. I'm reasonably happy with the result, in that it's an improvement, but it's not to professional standard. At least the rust is gone/treated, so maybe a complete professional respray one day

Just the spoiler to re-attach and a few more bits to do, then a thorough clean and I'll post up some pics. She'll then be ready for the show just down the road (Museum of Power) on Sunday.

[KiwiDave]

(or you can prise off the ball head to get access to tighten).

Any idea if one can prise the ball head off the original? That was gonna be my next move since that upper fixing refuses to budge.

[Casey]

I'll take a look at the old arm and see if the ball will slip out easily. Were you thinking of re-using the head by slipping it into a new arm? I'm not sure if the head sizes are the same. Again, I'll take a look.

Alternatively, can you carefully use a Dremel saw wheel, or similar, to cut the head off? Then you can remove the plastic side trim to get better access to the stuck bolt. I'm sure it must come out with good access?

[KiwiDave]

I thought re using the head would be the easiest option. Dremel is back up plan.

[Casey]

(or you can prise off the ball head to get access to tighten).

Any idea if one can prise the ball head off the original? That was gonna be my next move since that upper fixing refuses to budge.

I tried to get the ball head to pop out of the OEM arm that I've replaced. I put the bolt in a small vice and used the strut as a lever, but no luck. The bolt just slips out of the vice jaws, no matter how tight the vice grip. Maybe with a mega vice it might be possible. The ball looks to be held in with a circular spring clip, presumably inserted after the ball and I can't see a way to remove the clip without destroying the holder.

[KiwiDave]

Thanks for trying Plan B it is then.

[Casey]

Advice please. KIMI 2's oil cooler has sprung a leak. It's not from a connector. I've yet to get it out to see the source, but I'm thinking, do I get it repaired or replaced? Does anyone know of a source for new S2 coolers and/or places to get it repaired?