yogurt truck?
making some progress, all cut out ready for welding in the bits i want to put back.
Before I removed the subframes i took a load of measurement so I could make sure that they go into the FB at the correct angles and heights in relation to the chassis rails, floor and the other (front/rear) subframe. The front has proved to be fairly easy. Before I took the FD to be crushed, I cut out the front section of the chassis rails as they incorporate the upper wish bone mounts. The same piece of chassis rail also mounts to the subframe. By bolting them in place on the subframe and then bolting the wishbones to them, the geometry is correct which is important to me. The FD has a very good fully adjustable set up so I want to make sure that I keep it that way. If the upper wishbone mounts are slightly wrong, it can change the castor, camber and the KPI.
Once I had decided exactly where I wanted the front subframe I marked where it was going to go and then cut out the parts of the chassis rails on the FB to the same size as the replacement FD ones. Quite handy really as the drivers side FB was a little perforated with rust.
To get the rear subframe in the right place took a little more work, The subframe needed to be quite high up in the chassis to keep the optimum geometry. Also, the FB doesnt use coil overs at the rear but a shock and spring meaning there is no turret. So out came the grinder and gone was the boot floor, the inner arches and some parts of the rear chassis rails. The rear chassis rails will be replaced around the subframe once in and will also incorporate the turrets and a half cage in the rear.
Having played with both cars, the FB chassis is substantially stronger and heavier than the FD. The FD's strength is in the subframes and reinforcing bars underneath the car. I wouldnt be doing this to make a lighter car than the FD. It is amazing how close the measurements are on the 2 chassis' considering how many years apart they were made.
