Aussie S2 for nav trials

[aarc240]

This is what I started with:

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and on this car the only rust is this

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The windshield trim isn't missing, it was off to inspect that area.
Sharp eyes will likely spot the bent front bar (courtesy of a bitch in a Toyota Landcruiser) and the rear bar (courtesy of hoon son-in-law)

[aarc240]

And the 'spares' car

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Not noticeable in that shot is a slight 'bubble' kink in the right rear guard associated with the bend in the subframe.
That was the result of a hoon doing burnouts in Dad's car, losing it and shunting a street sign and a substantial power pole with the rear bar going backwards out of control (no, the bar on the car now is not the one on it then).
And this is what happens to the roof when a steel street sign post gets sheared off at ground level and flips over the car:

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Freakin' idiot !
Otherwise, the body is faultless with no rust or damage.

[aarc240]

And son-in-law's sneaky but effective cold air intake:

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All bits 'borrowed from Australian Holden Commodore !

I'll keep updating this as I can.

[aarc240]

OK, so an update on the diff / rear axles/ case to go LSD (and get some much needed extra strength in the axles at the same time).
The 7.5" centre was a Ford Courier (badge engineered from Mazda BT50) so I suspect Ford Australia wanted the 28 spline LSD. No use to anyone else!
Mazda 26 spline or similar after market clutch LSD it has to be.
After some head scratching I realised it is possible to have both a 35mm ID bearing and an S2 axle case.
A very common rear wheel bearing 6007-2RS has 62mm OD and 35mm ID (essentially, S2 OD and S3 ID). Slightly narrower at 14mm but that's fixable with a thin spacer in against the case.
So, what seal can be used?
Can't get a seal to fit the S2 case and an S3 bearing retainer (need 47mm ID 55mm OD for that) but go back to S2 bearing retainer wall thickness at 5mm and a seal is available (45mm ID 55mm OD), just a little narrower at 7mm which doesn't matter.
The extra wall thickness of the S3 retainer is there to provide increased grip but that can be compensated for by using a wider retainer.
Still need to get a 114.3mm PCD into the flange and get the flange into either S2 or some other disc that will allow using the standard caliper.
Seems I'll be spending some time on the lathe and mill modifying a couple of F100 axles to suit.

[impressiveg]

Sounds like you know what you're doing!!! I sort of got lost with the measurements of the bearing retainers then picked back up with the PCD Clearly I need to do more homework on these cars

Looking forward to seeing the progress continue

[aarc240]

Bugger!
To do anything with S2 front hubs for 4 on 114.3 puts the studs (or bolts) into a thin fragile part of the hub. No go.
Stay with 4 on 110, sell the 185/65R14 Bridgestone rally tyres, buy some 185/70R13 and put 'em on S2 wheels.
So the rear axle will now have 4 on 110, standard S2 solid discs, bolts instead of studs.

A real bind having to use the original equipment brakes or cop a 30 point penalty at the start of every event.

I've got a head start with this stuff, 66yo Engineer originally Fitter & Turner / Toolmaker and still run the accounts management in a heavy jobbing engineering shop. If it's out there I can get it, if not we can make it.

[aarc240]

Some progress on the smaller stuff having decided the yellow car is the better one.
Interior is out, seats getting some extra padding. Rear seat, carpets, insulation crap in the bin.
Instrument panel now white dials, red needles.
Center console panel filled, new openings for radio, UHF CB, storage tray; clock etc replaced by panel for toggle switches (lights and more).

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Moved the headlight control switch behind gear shift with power window switches.
Electric carbie is in the bin, rebuilt '79 now on, pure old skool mechanical carb although it's still got idle up for aircon.
Wasted spark (3 coils) conversion done.
Still have to plumb fuel and rear brakes through the cab before it can be started.
Once the startup has happened and everything tested, a repaint and all new rubbers to tidy up the body. Will still be yellow, just a slightly different shade.
Now it seems the old ticker needs a recon, so not much will happen for a couple of months or more.

[aarc240]

I know it's been a while but now that I'm slowly coming good from a quad bypass, progress is starting again.
Pic 1 (left front) looking down on the wasted spark ignition system where the battery used to be. The battery is behind the front passenger seat to aid weight distribution, and this location also allows an easy cool air inlet onto the heatsink plate.
Also visible on the tower is the PAL fuse block which replaces the standard fusible links.
Pic 2 (right front) looking down on PAL fuse block and head light & driving light relays plus extra blade fuse block and relay bases for fog lights & fans.
Pic 3 (left) gives a better idea of how it all starts to fit together over there. The funny blue thing with black arms is the fuel pressure regulator (yet to be plumbed in). The main battery to starter cable can be seen coming through the firewall.

As usual, changed the mind on a couple of things. Don't need to plumb fuel & brake lines through cabin, just made a protection plate under the car out of 4mm 5083 aluminium armour material.

[aarc240]

and this is where the relays for the power windows are tucked away.

[Hobbawobba]

Everything is looking pretty sweet aye! Glad to hear you're okay though!