www.RX7fb.com

the ultimate insult; not only being hit'n'run-ed but it being the most hateful car ever made doing the damage

Bad times dude. Post pics on the non-damage? Must be a scrape at least?

Though on the bright side, I can think of a plethora of various 60s/70s/80s/90s and current Eastern European, British and American cars that would be a much worse proposition to be rear ended by than a nice light weight, soft and low Honda - imagine an overtyred and jacked up F350!

Honda's (an EG Civics especially) not so hateful after all

VTEC Yo!

15x7's with fresh Falken Ziex 912's... not a performance tire by any means but they still feel worlds better than old bald tires! This fb is good enough to go hit up the backroads on the regular now.

RamoNZ wrote:Bad times dude. Post pics on the non-damage? Must be a scrape at least?

Though on the bright side, I can think of a plethora of various 60s/70s/80s/90s and current Eastern European, British and American cars that would be a much worse proposition to be rear ended by than a nice light weight, soft and low Honda - imagine an overtyred and jacked up F350!

Yeah seriously... I'm aware any kind of high riding truck or SUV could easily total my FB. I try not to think about it too much >_<

I'm thinking of installing a nice high 3rd brake light though... maybe it'll help?

I went for a spirited drive through the mountains last night, and today I noticed the sound of a dragging brake from the right rear. Upon inspection there's nothing wrong with the brakes at all, its my rear-axle wheel bearing that has too much play... allowing the axle shaft to actually put pressure on the pads under lateral load in left hand turns. So I ordered bearings for it, should be able to fix that on Monday.

Nice. Who owns the series 5s?

TOOL wrote:Nice. Who owns the series 5s?

That's my roommates FC, an S5 GTU that is now fully turbo-swapped. It isn't pretty but it's fast. He just built a new street-ported engine for it with FD rotors that we'll be installing very soon. It also has a chipped Knightsport ECU, Racing Beat series one 3" exhaust, KYB AGX shocks w/Tanabe GF210 Springs, SR Motorsports lightened flywheel, Blitz blow off valve, Stainless-braided brake lines, Porterfield pads, and probably more I'm forgetting...

So I changed the oil today after about 2 months and 2k miles. I burned through an extra 4 quarts during that time which was starting to get bothersome. My oil pan drips a bit but not enough to leave a puddle on the ground every morning. It also smokes a bit on startup, but that's not unusual for a rotary.

I was starting to wonder why I was burning so much oil and today I finally figured it out. I noticed the control rod for the mechanical Oil Metering Pump was being held up in the mostly open position by a section of engine wiring harness held up by a misaligned bracket. That means my car was always feeding mid-to-full-throttle levels of oil through the oil injectors at all times, even at idle. No wonder I was burning so much oil, and that also explains why my plugs were getting so oil fouled before.

Examining the oil itself revealed a lot of metal particles, which isn't all that unusual on the first couple oil changes on a fresh rebuild ...but still if I still see that much metal in the oil on the next oil change I will be a little worried.

I was running Valvoline VR1, but now I am stepping it up to the real deal Idemitsu synthetic rotary racing oil w/ premix. I decided to disconnect the oil metering pump altogether and see how much oil I use by premixing instead.

I premixed my bridgeported 12A in my other FB so it's not all that new to me. I remember it burned less oil then this GSL-SE was up until now so premixing should help this 13B burn less oil as well. (And I damn well hope so at $10 a quart)