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Thanks Mister Codge. The good news is that I don't need to replace it as the hot start assist has been removed. The condition of the lead makes sense now too. Hot start was fried probably due to this piece of electrical workmanship.
I have a feeling it had been disconnected anyway and I inadvertantly reconnected it some months ago after accidentally knocking the earth wire off the starter motor then scrambling around trying to find where the lead was.

Since you mentioned it Are there any negatives from removing the hot start assist at all? Is it just as simple as taking it all off, or will it mess with something else?

If it starts hot that should be that.

I still blip the throttle manually when starting Gus.......A hang back to the days of gassing up my ancient carburettor cars. And they didn't have hot start assist relays.
Maybe I'm duplicating my own hot start relay by doing that?

I don't do it on the modern diesel merc though. Foot off throttle is what you are advised there.

Lucky wrote:Or use normal wire with an in-line fuse holder? Even a slow-blow fuse would be preferable to bloody fusible links wouldn't it?

I'm not sure Nik.
Certainly fuses are necessary. I've once seen an unfused insulated wire of mine glow white hot over about a 6' length and then drip plastic everywhere all in a split second.
That was to a window clip-on parking light in the 1960's - remember them? I trapped the live unfused wire in a metal part of the car body. Whoops!

Fusing is a bit of a complicated science.....quick blow, slow blow, high prospective fault current .....and so on. But yeah, a fuse of some sort is better than no fuse, but I'd always revert to maker's standard if I could.

codge wrote:I don't do it on the modern diesel merc though. Foot off throttle is what you are advised there.

Accelerator pedal, you mean - of course the diesel doesn't have a throttle in the conventional sense - more simple engine speed control via the injection pump amount

Hot start assist - get rid, 1 less thing to worry about.

Fast blow vs. slow blow is essentially the difference is whether the following circuit can handle the fuses rated amperage or a touch more for a brief moment - for example an electric fan may have an inrush/power on current of 11A then settle down to a lower quiescent draw of perhaps 7.5A. The slow blow fuse of 10A would probably be ok in this instance, but for me personally, I would stick a traditional 15A in it and ensure the cable is rated to higher than this then forget it.

Dave do yourself a favour and clear the bay of the clutter when the engine is going back in - rats nest and possibly look to ditch the beehive - you even remove quite a lot of bumpf from the carb. It will make any future maintenance quicker and nicer to work on. Might also want to invest in some shiny new stainless bolts!

Yeah, I was under the impression that fusible links were essentially the prehistoric version of slow blowing fuses? I know the old ways are often the best but not always in car electrics, lol

Much as I love the idea of having a throttle-blipping robot, I find myself able to blat the accelerator pedal manually even when the engine's hot, tbh, so my hot-start assist is also heading bin-wards. Not that it's anything to do with not being arsed enough to try fixing it in with the Weber and that

Lucky wrote:Yeah, I was under the impression that fusible links were essentially the prehistoric version of slow blowing fuses? I know the old ways are often the best but not always in car electrics, lol

Much as I love the idea of having a throttle-blipping robot, I find myself able to blat the accelerator pedal manually even when the engine's hot, tbh, so my hot-start assist is also heading bin-wards. Not that it's anything to do with not being arsed enough to try fixing it in with the Weber and that

The fusible link was designed shortly after the big bang as far as I am aware.

Forget forgoing a hot start assist, thats nothing - I'm going to forgo a choke...! Yup - few pumps on the gas pedal before starting, 10 seconds of high idle and I'm ready to go! Obviously not going to be seeing the same sub-zero temps that might be present up t'North but

RamoNZ wrote:
Accelerator pedal, you mean

I seem to remember when I flew with Biggles I had a hand throttle not an accelerator. He had a Sopwith Camel but I had an SE5 (flying glasshouse model).....I got it from Wilco.......lol.......

Question time. I'm going to leave the gearbox in place. I've read that the rear engine hook must be moved as this is held in place by a bolt which, in turn, secures the motor to the gearbox. Any truth to this claim?

the bolt hole in the rear iron for this bolt is threaded so wind it out, put some bigger nuts or washers on it to pack it out / shim it and then tighten it back up with the lifting eye still attached. Doing this means that the bolt will still be secure but will no longer go all the way through the iron and the bellhousing meaning you can easily separate the engine from the box but still use it to lift the engine out and back in