www.RX7fb.com

Thanks. Yep, grille and valance are already off. I can see the 4 bolts that hold the main ironwork to the chassis rails. Are there any other bolts to remove to release the bumper? Or, just remove those 4, electrical and hoses - thank for reminder about that ( I'm quite used to that, given I've removed the rx8 nose a few times ) - then wiggle the end pieces out?

Yeah, I seem to remember it's just the 4 bolts... draw around the brackets with a pencil first where they go onto the chassis.... it'll make it easier to line it back up again later..... then just unplug the side lights and the headlight washer hose.

I intend to replace all the fasteners and bolts I've removed with new, wherever possible. I have quite a collection of taptites and stainless steel bolts now. Theses arrived this morning too:



The captive fixing isn't as deep as the original as I couldn't find any identical online. I'll either reuse the old ones, which aren't too bad, or modify the plastic panels with slight notches, which has the advantage of stopping the captive from turning, as most did on extraction!

Thx Ian, front bumper came off without any problems;



Decided to break down the bumper assembly for a check and thorough clean. It's generally OK, but I do need to attend to a couple of the nasty rust spots where the previous owner used self tappers to attach the number plate (I had the same issue with the rear plate) :x .



The good news is I got a call to say my oil cooler is ready to collect. I will pop over there tomorrow and hope they've done a good job!

Collected re-cored oil cooler today - looks to be a good job. Should be for the price I paid, but happy to support local business on this one

Finally got some time to start replacing the cooler and other bits.

A few questions, hoping for some help/advice.

1. I didn't take out the thermostat out before passing the cooler over for a rebuild, and I was given the bits back unassembled, so I don't know the order and the manual isn't clear.Can anyone confirm this is the correct assembly order for the thermostat. It seems logical, but it is possible to assemble with the sensor the other way around! Just want to be 100% certain



2. I assume there should be a crush washer in there too? I have some copper ones of the correct size, but no ali ones, assume OK to use copper?

3. Is it worth testing the thermostat in hot oil before reassembly - are they prone to failure? I have the procedure in the manual to test.

I've read that ally washers are better as they are softer, so that's what I've used, but copper should be ok I guess.

Thanks - I've ordered some Ali washers as I agree they would be preferable for this application. Having spent a lot of time, effort and £ to get this far, I'd rather do the job properly

I've now found some pics on the internet to confirm the correct orientation for the 'stat is correct in the pic I posted

As I'm waiting for the Ali washers to arrive, I might as well test the thermostat anyway. Last thing I want to do is get everything back together and find the 'stat isn't working!

These should keep me going for a while

Didn't seem worth getting just what I needed for now when this lot was delivered next day for less than a tenner - M14 through to M22 sizes!

Oil cooler thermostat in spec; >5mm pin out at 70 degrees centigrade (oil was cooling rapidly as I arranged to take photo!)