12a Autopsy

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Steve-A
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12a Autopsy

Post by Steve-A »

About 2 months ago the original engine from my FB died. Last week I got round to dismantling it to see what went wrong, and I thought you guys might be interested to see what I found :)

I've taken 1 blown rotary apart before, but this is the first one I've taken to bits when it might (or might not as the case may be...) go back together. Most of the engine threads I've seen have been taken from a more informed point of view, but as a newbie to all this it's hard to know what to look for and where the line between useable and just a bit too far gone lies. With this in mind I posted on the Exile forum where there's lots of guys with experience of doing rebuilds and now hopefully I can present a semi-informed autopsy of my 12a. I'd like to re-itterate that I've really new to this. All of the info in this thread is secondhand via pictures off the internet and the thanks to the Exile guys.

So first off, lets get some background. As far as I can tell this 12a is the original un-opened engine from my FB. According to the previous owner it was a daily driver from 84 to about 96, covering 72,000 miles. It then sat in a garage till my friend Ross bought it off eBay in 2010. After a good service it was then put back into daily driving by me from summer 2011 till spring 2012, when at 86,000 miles it started showing signs of damage.

The first signs of problems was that the hot starting ability started to deteriorate. It went from needing a few more turns of the starter to catch up to the point where it would be impossible to start when hot in about 3 weeks. After the first couple of weeks of hot start trouble I noticed a drop in fuel efficiency, a drop in power, more blue smoke and oil usage and a new vibration that just didn't feel right. :(

OK, so we've got an engine and the sun is shining.

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So first thing was to take the sump off. The oil I took out of the engine had looked ok, if a bit thin, but the sludge left in the bottom of the sump has so many small metal particles in it, it looked like a nice gun metal metal flake paint! It also had some fairly sizeable chunks on metal.

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Obviously the chunks of metal are a bad sign, as they are likely to be debris from broken engine parts, but apparently the sparkly bits as dramatic as they look. It would suggest parts have been wearing but its not the end of the world and maybe good strong running engines have been found to have similar sparkly bits in the bottom of the sump.

Next up was to remove the front pulley, front cover, front counter weight and oil pump assembly. I stupidly didn't take any photos of this in process. So here's a picture stolen from the internet to illustrate what the parts look like assembled.

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Behind the front counter weight there is a thrust bearing. Mine didn't look good....

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Here we can see where it's marked the counter weight from sitting off centre.

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This could be my fault.... It's something I've heard before and now seems fairly confirmed, that if you take the front pulley off while the engine is in the car, or in the same position as if it were in the car then the bearing is no longer held tight and will drop. When you put the front pulley back on it crimps the bearing. I did take the pulley off with the engine in its normal orientation while I painted the engine. :oops:

A couple of guys on Exile suggested that this knackered bearing will mean that there will be excessive end float on the crank, which will lead to accelerated side seal and oil control seal wear and ultimately engine death. I've read that the best way to prevent this if you must take the pulley off is to stand the engine with the crank vertically (flywheel down).

Next post, lets open the short block.
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Re: 12a Autopsy

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So engine apart.... aaahhhh! All the pictures I've seen of this being done involved standing the engine with the crank vertically the the flywheel end up, so I copied that! First off was the rear plate, then I could see inside!

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Nothing obviously horrific there, so lets dig a little deeper. The rear plate was typical of all my plates. It looked generally corrosion free, but had some noticeable grooves from where the side seals ran. I believe this is considered normal wear, and possibly the origin of some the the sparkles in the oil.

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A PDF version of the official Mazda Rotary Engine Overhaul Criteria is available on the net, and it has got all the measurements and tolerances required to check just how worn your engine is and which parts can be reused. According to this manual my plates were just about within the specs, but it makes sense that if they are only just within tolerance now that they will soon be worn out. The good news is that plates can be re machined flat, like skimming a head on a piston engine, with relative ease and a set of plates can take a number of machinings before being dead.

With the rear plate removed I could also assess the rear stationary gear. The gear itself looks fairly good. When worn the teeth get rounded edges, where as mine were nice and sharp still. The bad news is that the stationary gear bearing was ruined. It was heavily scored and worn through to the copper in places.

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The Exile guys had some thoughts as to why this had happened, but lets move on with the disassembly for now. The rotor housings didn't look as bad as some that I've seen but they were still suffering from chrome damage. This is the rear housing.

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The chrome chipping you can see in the last pic is at the top of the housing on the intake stroke. This is a classic place for the chrome to be damaged. Mazda say you can get away with chrome chipping as long as it doesn't extend more than 2mm into the housing. This small patch extends 5mm in. The front housing had a much larger area of chrome missing, this time on the bottom of the housing on the exhaust stroke, another classic place.

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Now people on the internet are saying that with 12a housing becoming increasingly rare that some borderline housings could be reused in rebuild. Mine were considered too far gone though really. They aren't totally written off yet, but like the worn plates it would be silly to spend lots of money on other new parts and the time and effort of rebuilding only for the housings to result in slightly weaker compression and ultimately failure in just a few thousand miles.

Both rotors themselves looked generally ok. The bearings were not, they showed the same scoring and wear as the rear stationary gear bearing did.

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Due to the damage I was already finding on the housings and bearings I didn't take any time to check out the tolerances on any of the apex, side or corner seals. One odd thing was it looked like I'd lost one of the smaller triangle apex seal corners in the rear rotor. I wondered if it's remains was what the shrapnel in the sump is, but it was suggested that it's much more likely that it jumped out during disassembly as the housings would normally show gouges and the apex seal groove in the rotor would be damaged if it had escaped during use.

Now lets get back to the damaged bearings. The worst was yet to come. When removing the front stationary gear from the e-shaft it was soon obvious that the front stationary gear bearing had spun. Here it is stuck to the shaft.

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And when removed...

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Nasty :( Finally the e-shaft itself. It shows signs of getting hot with discolouration and is scored lightly all over and more heavily where the front stat gear bearing spun.

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The overhaul manual says that level of scoring is useable, but the general opinion was that you wouldn't wanna put that back in an engine.
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Re: 12a Autopsy

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The bearing damage throughout the engine looks as if it could be a mixture of oil starvation and the problems of having shrapnel being pumped round which is scoring all the bearing surfaces. Which came first the chicken or the egg? I don't think I'll ever know. I did my best to keep the engine well sealed while the car was in bits, but there's always the chance that I let dirt/metal get into the oil system during my restoration work. If there ever was an advert for covering the ports and making sure you don't let crap get in the oil system, this is it!

It looks likely that that damaged thrust bearing could be the cause of the loss of compression and that coincidentally the oil system problems were soon to kill the engine anyway with that spun bearing.

So last but not least, where to go from here? Well the plates are worth keeping, but it looks like little else is. I'd be much better basing an engine rebuild on a good working engine or certainly one with a less catastrophic reason for failure. As I mentioned earlier finding 12a bits is becoming harder and good housings are now quite rare. So most people recommend going for a 13b at this stage if I'm looking to build a higher performance engine.

Still I've got a good strong 12a in the car for now so I've got some breathing room to think :)


I hope this has been of some interest to y'all. I've learnt a lot about how my engine works and some mistakes I made and hopefully that will benefit someone else :)
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Re: 12a Autopsy

Post by kenwhiteside »

Nice strip report! I have seen much worse from engineers at work.

Are the rotors usually that coked up?
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Re: 12a Autopsy

Post by MelloYello »

Very interesting read Steve. And thanks for all the photos, very interesting for those of us not familiar with the internal workings of the rotary. I see your water jackets are nice and clear, most of the engines i have seen taken apart are full of sludge.

Seems like you will be heading down the 13b path.... as parts will have more availablity.
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Re: 12a Autopsy

Post by chc »

Well Steve - you certainly went through the mill with Rexanne, I think we all thought following your successful restoration of the bodywork, the mechanical aspects would have been a walk in the park and never even dreamt you would end up with major heart surgery but fortunately you were able to lay your hands on another heart to complete a transplant.
Then yet again you turned your hands and thoughts around to investigate how such a tragic end was brought about - fantastic pics and very descriptive giving an insight to all of what is always considered to be a NO-NO subject but WOW h[b[

Cliff

1983 Series 2 - Stardust Blue Elford Turbo
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