KIMI 3 - 1984 Series 3

[gt_james]

As above, there is a one way valve in the original hose, quite close to the end. Try shoving a long pipe cleaner through or something to check its there.

I wonder if your ticking noise comes from the dizzy, I had a ticking come from my dizzy that changed with vacuum.

[Casey]

I took the vacuum hose off the brake servo and as it came off there was a reassuring hiss as the vacuum was released. The engine hadn't been run for a week or so either, so quite impressive. I noted the one-way valve at the servo end of the pipe and checked it with a vacuum pump - all good, so servo and pipe are fine.

It is looking like the master brake cylinder, as has been suggested. I'll need to order one from Rock Auto I guess.

[Casey]

I ordered a new Master brake cylinder from RockAuto. The part, as shown in several photos, looked absolutely perfect. The part that arrived looked NOTHING like the photos. TBF, RockAuto didn't quibble and refunded me straight away, but I'm back to square one. The part on RockAuto that I ordered is now shwoing "out of stock", so I wonder if they did that when they heard of my issue

[Casey]

I spotted a radiator leak and have had the rad re-cored by a local company (see http://www.rx7fb.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=3602&p=48924)

Whist the rad is out, I have also removed the rad surrounds and battery tray to clean up and re-paint. I also noted the thermostat elbow was badly corroded, so decided to remove it and have ordered a replacement from eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322216870054 - it's due to arrive soon.

However, I managed to shear the lower thermostat housing M8 bolt, despite being very cautious I then tried to removed the bolt with an extractor, which promptly sheared inside the bolt

I decided the best solution was to use a JCB Diamondtech 8mm core drill (Toolstation, £9.86) and, if necessay, retap for an M10 bolt.

2021-10-04 14.55.29.jpg (100.5 KiB) Viewed 4638 times

I got lucky though, the drill bit cut a clean and quite fast core to a depth of about 8mm, which I was able to remove (so part bolt and part extractor gone ). That left a remnant of M8 bolt in the blind hole which drilled out quite easily with a 6.5mm cobalt drill. It was then a matter of retapping/cleaning the remaining. lower part of the M8 thread. To be safe I drilled a few mm deeper into the blind hole and tapped the M8 thread a bit deeper too. It's all cleaned out now and a stainless steel bolt tightens up in there nicely.

2021-10-04 17.28.14.jpg (82.42 KiB) Viewed 4638 times

I have a busy cople of weeks, so it will be a while before I can repaint items and get everything back together. The rad hose looks OK, but does anyone know a source for replacement hoses, rubber or silicone, other than Rock Auto?

[Threesevens]

If you are looking for a master cylinder Dave (Dibs) might have one spare now he has sold his car.

[A7RXY]

Malcolm as Kevin has said I have a master that he got as a group supply some time ago and a newish top hose that I used for a while before I fitted my silicon ones. I'm in Greece until later this month so if you are in no hurry we can probably arrange something.
Dibs

[KiwiDave]

However, I managed to shear the lower thermostat housing M8 bolt, despite being very cautious I then tried to removed the bolt with an extractor, which promptly sheared inside the bolt

2021-10-04 14.55.29.jpg

I did the same to the lower bolt some time ago. I ended up installing my spare water pump housing as the bolt would not budge

Fast forward to a few months back and I removed the thermostat housing very carefully to replace the stat and then ended up stripping the thread when reinstalling it

[Casey]

Malcolm as Kevin has said I have a master that he got as a group supply some time ago and a newish top hose that I used for a while before I fitted my silicon ones. I'm in Greece until later this month so if you are in no hurry we can probably arrange something.
Dibs

Dave, that would be awesome. I've got a busy couple of weeks coming up anyway, so can't do much until the latter part of the month, then I have the radiator side panels to refurbish, along with the battery tray, so timing is good. Let me know when you are back home and we can sort something out. I might even be able to pop down to you to collect to save the hassle of posting. That way, if you have anything else in your stash of parts I can take a look and maybe take some off your hands. Have a great time in Greece (I know you will!)

[Casey]

However, I managed to shear the lower thermostat housing M8 bolt, despite being very cautious I then tried to removed the bolt with an extractor, which promptly sheared inside the bolt

I did the same to the lower bolt some time ago. I ended up installing my spare water pump housing as the bolt would not budge

Fast forward to a few months back and I removed the thermostat housing very carefully to replace the stat and then ended up stripping the thread when reinstalling it

Amazing isn't it, we both knew that there could be issues and were cautious, but both ended up with problems. I shall use a torque wrench when tightening and go to the minimum I can get away with as I only have about 5-6 threads only on the lower bolt. Worse case, if it strips, I will retap for an M10 bolt as there is plenty of metal there.

[Casey]

MOT due by 3 November, so I'm hoping to get everything sorted by then;

(list largely for me to remember when I finally can get to start on things )

• steering idler pin housing - POR 15 treatment
• battery tray - POR 15 treatment
• idler housing re-grease and replace with original (like new) bushes.
• test old thermostat - DONE
• rad surrounds treat and repaint
• make gasket for new thermostat - DONE
• fit thermostat & new thermostat housing elbow (due from USA 18 Oct) - DONE
• refit battery tray (s/s bolts)
• refit rad (s/s bolts and hoses (new clamps)
• refit fan
• refit fan shroud (s/s bolts)
• refill coolant (I have plenty of Bluecol)
• install battery
• fire up and check for leaks and coolant level

Updated with progress, 18 October