www.RX7fb.com

Thanks for the warm welcome here. I'm the dedicated enthusiast from NZ. I've had this car sitting in a garage since 1996. Just one of those things I told myself I'd get around to doing one day. Back then it was complete and running. Just needed a new windscreen. I took it for a test drive to the nearest gas station. I haven't driven it since.
Its amazing how much it has deteriorated while garaged. Lots of Aluminium oxide on aluminium engine parts (oxalic acid or oven cleaner I am told). I need to finish wrapping the wiring. The original 1985 Cosmo loom is integrated int0 the RX7 one in key places. Brake seals, clutch, suspension rubbers, all will need doing. I'll list my plan in a later post along with all the new or refurbished parts I have found. First thing on the agenda, see if the engine is still alive.

I had a 12AT that had been sat for some time (10 years?) and it came back to life quite easily.

The fuel system will be your biggest issue, I reckon.

Last time the engine ran was in 2007. When I got the engine from the importer in 1995 one of the injectors was sticking (Dark blue 850cc ones). So I got two new replacements. I also cleaned out the fuel tank and installed a series 6 in tank pump as all the Cosmo ones I found crapped out. So I'm hopeful.
Engine was a 1985 Cosmo with the 165hp Turbo. The wiring just needs wrapping. Loom running to engine is the Cosmo one.
I'm going to check inside engine and so drained radiator to access turbo drain line. Coolant is very clean. Previously I changed it in 2007. Again was quite clean as Engine hadn't been through hot cold cycle. But there was a lot of black gunge. Aluminium Oxide?

FYI the exhaust is the standard 12a turbo down pipe with 2.5 inch pipe where the cat usually goes. Rear part is twin tube series 2 stainless exhaust with the twin pipes going into the muffler. This is high flow for the big primary port 12a's so should have better flow for the turbo without being too loud.

Before starting about 9 months ago I made a plan based on what needed doing and ordered parts to get started. Its amazing what is still available new. During this time I also photographed the car. These photos have been taken over the past 4-5 months. I'm now up to date so every thing from the turbo removal on is now current. A few weeks ago I removed the top of the inlet manifold and poured a 50:50 mix of 2 stroke oil and fuel down the throttle body. Engine was initially stuck but freed up easily. Added more mix as I spun it around. Built up compression well, but may still be down in a couple of faces. There was no water or oil in the chamber before adding the mix and the radiator level was high.

Got any pics on how you did the in tank pump and how you prevent fuel surge?

Good base to work off but!

Looks like a nice project there Will be good to see it all sorted aye

I had a surge tank fitted when I was running the cosmo pumps originally as I assumed the tank pickup line was too small. However the RX7 and all the Cosmos fitted with the 12a turbo or the NA Fuel injected 6 port 13B all use the same fuel systems as the 13B GSL SE sold in the US. That's just an inline fuel pump running 49.5 PSI with a manifold sensing regulator on the fuel rail. I understand boost is 7 psi and I'm not going to run more initially. Also the 85-89 Cosmo fitted with the intercooled turbo 13B uses the same in tank pump as the series 4 so I'm assuming the stock systems are Ok for surge. Hopefully this ,means the series 6 pump will be OK.

I don't have a photo at the moment but I'll put one up when I check the tank again before trying a start-up.

I had the panel off the series 6 tank with the pump mounted on it and cut out the mounting flange on the tank. I modified these and welded them into the series one tank. The fuel pickup point is a little higher. I might integrate it into the stock plate later.

The mags are Japanese Enkei mags not Mazda factory, but I read somewhere they were an option in Japan. They came with the car. I will see how they clean up, but I may go up to 14 or 15inch wheels if I can get the tire size right to pass certification. The car hasn't been registered in NZ since 1994 so will need recertification to get back on the road.

As promised. Here`s my plan.

Red Car Project Outline

1 Remove top hat on engine and squirt mixture into engine, do not turn over by hand till done - Done
2 See what oil and water levels are like Done
3 Remove spark plugs and check chamber Done
4 After soaking for 15 mins Turn engine over by hand back and forth to begin with, add more mixture then rotate more Done
5 Keep watching spark plugs for sign of coolant Done
6 Determine tightness of water pump and fan clutch Done
7 See if compression building up Done
8 Take photos of general condition of car and engine
9 assess condition of braking systems
10 remove cover and assess condition of clutch mechanical and hydraulic systems
11 Remove intake and assess turbo end play and rotation
12 Remove turbo and assess condition of engine interior

13 preoil turbo
14 Remove radiator hoses and flush radiator, heater core and engine passages
15 drain and change oil and filter
16 source brake caliper kits or calipers if required (series 2 front calipers)
17 source brake hoses (x5) and adapters if required
18 Cut exhaust pipe if required and install gearbox mount
19 Install exhaust pipe properly
20 Install filter on airflow meter temporaily for now and plan permanent installtion (RX8 filter?)
21 assess installation of hand brake cables
22 remove and drain fuel tank
23 assess operational status of fuel pump
24 assess properly coating and finishing fuel tank
25 assess proper installation of fuel pump relay drivern by air flow meter
26 determine requirements to complete EFI wiring
27 Permanently install wiring loom
28 replace tachometer or repair faulty one
29 install electic window switches with dual control for driver
30 install door trim and handles
31 install electic door mirros and controls
32 finish gear shift seal and surround
33 remove gearbox and replace clutch if required (remove motor instead if required)
34 replace water pump impeller
35 install dual pully alternator pully
36 assess body rust when components out and repair as required
37 determine status of steering components
38 source rubber steering suspension components as required
39 asseess suspension components - determine if springs are cut and replace for certification if required
40 replace shocks as required.
41 plastic washers for headlight retractor links or use rubber grommets instead
42 weld damaged right underguard plastic
43 price wind screen - got 2nd hand one
44 assess seat belts
45 drain and fill gearbox and diff
46 make proper plate for air valve block off
47 reapair O2 sensor wire continuity to ECU
48 test ECU wiring
49 price and source turbo rebuild kit (Turbo OK not needed)
50 crank motor over on starter with turbo preoiled
51 windscreen trim clips
52 Install body panels
53 install front bumper
54 Install front indicators

55 Certify

About a week ago drained the lower hose and radiator to get access to the turbo oil drain so I can remove the turbo and look inside the engine. The photo below is of the dissassembled connection. The Big nut which is loose on the pipe goes to the front cover. US owners of GSL-SE will have this hole as a unmachined blank. BTW- There are currently 2 of the GSL-SE versions of these on EBAY now new. I managed to get a brand new still in packet pipe with the nut on Trademe in NZ for $NZ 18 in case I stuffed this one.

When installing do not do this up tight. Just do it up enough. Like me youll pay for it when trying to undo. This was tight. The large nut is 36mm the smaller one 32mm. Brace the 32mm with a spanner when undoing the 36mm anticlockwise or you will crimp the braided hose going to the turbo.
After removing the four nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold the steering box fouls the heat shield on the turbo when removing so I undid the 10mm nuts holding the two halves of the heatshield and removed the lower half.
To remove the heatshield upper section the O2 sensor must be removed. Even with the correct 22mm 02 sensor socket ($NZ 18 Repco) I could not remove the sensor even when busting a gut. While a replacement is $US 11.60 on Ebay I still didn’t want to break it. Next instalment I’ll install the correct gearbox mount I didn’t have in 1996 which should provide enough clearance to remove the turbo without removing the heatshield. Also lifting the engine slightly may help.