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Hate to spoil the fun, but AFAIK you can't intercool an Elford se-up because it's a draw through carb set-up. Which is a pain.

Steve-A wrote:Hate to spoil the fun, but AFAIK you can't intercool an Elford se-up because it's a draw through carb set-up. Which is a pain.

that's right, you can't ..... the elford setup is easy to fit and run in a 12a 1st gen but if you were to start to try to modify it for other applications (13b), you might as well go the turbo 2 route and do things that way.... one thing you don't want to do is to put an intercooler on an elford setup. You will get more power and flexibilty going with a t2 engine from the start.

ian65 wrote:

Steve-A wrote:Hate to spoil the fun, but AFAIK you can't intercool an Elford se-up because it's a draw through carb set-up. Which is a pain.

that's right, you can't ..... the elford setup is easy to fit and run in a 12a 1st gen but if you were to start to try to modify it for other applications (13b), you might as well go the turbo 2 route and do things that way.... one thing you don't want to do is to put an intercooler on an elford setup. You will get more power and flexibilty going with a t2 engine from the start.

Actually you can intercooler a draw through/elford type set up.

Only small issue is the fuel condensing inside the intercooler - not a problem in itself, unless your engine backfires in which case the front of your car will look like you've driven over an IED

RamoNZ wrote:

ian65 wrote:

Steve-A wrote:Hate to spoil the fun, but AFAIK you can't intercool an Elford se-up because it's a draw through carb set-up. Which is a pain.

that's right, you can't ..... the elford setup is easy to fit and run in a 12a 1st gen but if you were to start to try to modify it for other applications (13b), you might as well go the turbo 2 route and do things that way.... one thing you don't want to do is to put an intercooler on an elford setup. You will get more power and flexibilty going with a t2 engine from the start.

Actually you can intercooler a draw through/elford type set up.

Only small issue is the fuel condensing inside the intercooler - not a problem in itself, unless your engine backfires in which case the front of your car will look like you've driven over an IED

so basically you can't then.....unless you want to risk blowing yourself up

haha yeah, I was going with can't from a practical point of view, rather than logistical

ian65 wrote:

RamoNZ wrote:
Actually you can intercooler a draw through/elford type set up.

Only small issue is the fuel condensing inside the intercooler - not a problem in itself, unless your engine backfires in which case the front of your car will look like you've driven over an IED

so basically you can't then.....unless you want to risk blowing yourself up

Yeah, but it would certainly add to the excitement of driving!

sorted the clutch hydraulics on this car this week after I got the sinking pedal syndrome....

got a slave and master cylinder from the US for a very good price.....

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all good now...

The diff on this car has been whining since I bought the car back in 2009 and the car handles diabolically, when slightest change of direction in the wet makes it feels like it’s going to fall off the road... scary stuff!
I’ve had the replacement axle all prepped and ready to go on plus the ReSpeed polybushes since the early part of last year but have put the job off as I hate changing axles on cars.
Today though, as the silver car is out of the garage and the pit is free, I decided to bite the bullet and get on with it.



As predicted, it’s been a right bitch of a job. The suspension bolts were rusty/seized/ tight and are in the most awkward of places meaning I couldn’t get a decent socket and bar on them. Thank god I’ve got a decent pit that I can stand up in underneath the car..... I think I’d have given up otherwise.

Another annoying thing is that the bolts that secure the lower radius arms to the body, which always seem to be the most rusty, have a little metal tab welded to the body which is supposed to stop the head of the bolt from turning. Trouble is, because the bolt is so rusty and seized, by putting enough force on it to undo the nut, this tab bends so that the bolt head spins but the damn thing doesn’t bend right out of the way.... it stays just close enough to the bolt head to stop a socket or spanner going onto it.... I might cut these tabs off when I rebuild the suspension.

It took all afternoon the remove the axle, suspension and brakes from the car. Once it was on the garage floor, I found that the watts link was seized solid as was a lower trailing arm and a upper trailing arm where they joined the axle. Without removing the suspension arms and watts link, I don’t know have you would be able to tell if these pivot points were seized or not.

This is the 5th 1st gen that I’ve taken the rear axle / suspension off and all have had seized suspension joints to some degree or other. This probably explains why the 1st gens that I’ve driven in the last 10 years or so don’t handle anywhere near how I remember the 1st gens did back in the 80’s. I reckon there are plenty out there with seized suspension links that the owners are unaware of.

The axle came off Keiths old ‘B’ reg and I was going to use it on that black shell I used to own.
Here it is ready to go onto my car tomorrow....



I also found that the offside rear caliper was seized solid.... another job to do.

Hopefully by this time tomorrow it should be back together.

yeah Cliff, the bushes were quite horrible...



but it's all back together now on new polys...

I've put my freshly skimmed discs, that Keith very kindly sorted out for me, on the car as well together with a rebuilt NS caliper and new pads...



just need to bleed to brakes now and it should be good to go ( and stop)

.