www.RX7fb.com

DKWW2000 wrote:I would go for the one on Amazon as it is cheaper, must be much the same & covers the technology used on the cars era, (not the rotary engine get a Haynes manual for that) Brakes, Clutch, Starter Motor etc etc.
I think the Ebay copy is expensive so I was expecting about £5 from a boot sale
regards Pete

Nice one, I'll get it and have a read... but for next steps on where I'm currently at has anyone got any suggestions?

Have you confirmed you have a spark at the plugs (check the bottom plugs first) .
What are the numbers on the plugs, just in case the wrong ones were in when you got her.
On no account over tighten them as it is easy to do so which can cause the housing to crack

DKWW2000 wrote:Have you confirmed you have a spark at the plugs (check the bottom plugs first) .

What are the numbers on the plugs, just in case the wrong ones were in when you got her.

On no account over tighten them as it is easy to do so which can cause the housing to crack

 

I bought the new plugs from ebay, I think they were right -- its these ones

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-NGK-SPARK ... 5d3bcfd760

 

No I haven't checked for spark - I'm sure this is in the book you have suggested, but until that arrives how might I go about checking this?

 

I don't think I over tightened them, I gave them a small tweak after hand screwing but only maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Yep,they are fine, the easiest way to test for a spark is to remove one of the bottom plugs and connect the lead back on the plug and earth the plug onto a metal part of the engine. It is best to do this in a garage or somewhere there is low light so it is easy to see the spark if there is one. It is easy if you get someone else to crank the engine. If you hold the the plug against the engine make sure you wear a very thick glove, welding or the like so you do not act as the earth, the coils produce between 18-24K volts but with little amps fortunately, you can buy a device from accessory shops that fits in line between plug & HT lead that lights up when working
I hope this helps,
regards Pete

DKWW2000 wrote:Yep,they are fine, the easiest way to test for a spark is to remove one of the bottom plugs and connect the lead back on the plug and earth the plug onto a metal part of the engine. It is best to do this in a garage or somewhere there is low light so it is easy to see the spark if there is one. It is easy if you get someone else to crank the engine. If you hold the the plug against the engine make sure you wear a very thick glove, welding or the like so you do not act as the earth, the coils produce between 18-24K volts but with little amps fortunately, you can buy a device from accessory shops that fits in line between plug & HT lead that lights up when working
I hope this helps,
regards Pete

Thanks, I will get a tester and let you know how I get on!

Check for spark at the plug as per above.

Check for fuel at the carb. Pull the blue lid off. Look down the carb while pulling on the throttle lever. You should see 2 jets of fuel coming from the accelerator pump jets.

Check fuel filter. Check fuel pump function.

A fully charged battery will help crank it faster.

Report back.

marked wrote:
Thanks, I will get a tester and let you know how I get on!

Do you have a Sitrep on the Ignition Spark?

I do hate to hijack another mans thread but two birds one stone and all that.
I'm in pretty much same situation as our man, with no offence just a little more knowaldge about mechanics but no expert.
I've put new coils and plugs on whipped the bottom plug out the front housing and I'm getting spark, I would say strong but may be losing a little through insulation on the side of the lead but have new ones on way, took the air box off and operated accelerater linkage and was getting fuel into the carb I also have no return line so it's into a fuel can at the min and decent flow, I've tried a bit of easy start and a bit off fuel in the carb but still just turning with no sign of combustion, new battery no sure how much the engine was flooded when I got it the return line had a screw in it I did remove the old plugs and turned it over to try get all the fuel out but can't be sure it's all out. Just been out to take some pics so I'll start a little thread but makes life quicker to hijack at the min
Cheers fellas but what's next I have a piston compression tester but don't think I could take the clenching while I do it as really wanna drive this year

DKWW2000 wrote:

marked wrote:
Thanks, I will get a tester and let you know how I get on!

Do you have a Sitrep on the Ignition Spark?

Should have the spark plug tester tomorrow, will try it out wednesday and let you know!

marked wrote:

DKWW2000 wrote:

marked wrote:
Thanks, I will get a tester and let you know how I get on!

Do you have a Sitrep on the Ignition Spark?

Should have the spark plug tester tomorrow, will try it out wednesday and let you know!

I tested the bottom and top, it looks like bottom is getting spark, I couldn't tell on the top as it was too light to see, I'll try again shortly as it gets dark to see better.

http://youtu.be/vHCf4tnPXio

There seems to be something missing from the engine bay aswell, lots of cables in the corner not attached (see photo).



am I missing something major in the corner?