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Sunday Bloody Sunday
I sprayed the linkage as suggested and took the car out for a fairly gentle run for about 15 miles, When I stopped about halfway I got a bit of a backfire when I turned the engine off. The revs had settled to somewhere near normal with no engine racing on both inward and outward journeys. There was no backfire when I got home
So I was hoping things were ok.
Earlier in the week I was checking the oil and I was surprised to find a bit of cream deposit on the oil filler cap which I wiped off and put it down to the car not being used for a while.
It gets worse when I took the car out of the garage this morning the were a few oil drips on the garage floor which weren't apparent before. I wiped up the oil and put the car back in the garage.
Later this afternoon I lubricated the throttle linkage and decided to take the car out for the test run as above.
When I got back I checked the garage floor again and there more oil deposits on the floor that maybe had leaked out during the day., or possibly it came from the light oil I sprayed on the linkage a bit earlier The oil level stick was showing some signs of cream deposit up the stick but the oil at the bottom was clear.
WTF is going on

The deposits on the dipstick and the oil filler cap could most likely be condensation due to short operating times. Do you see any tubes on or at the base of the oil filler neck? These tubes should be connected to a vacuum source and their purpose is to prevent the build up of condensation and ensure that crankcase gasses are vented in an environmentally safe manner.

Since switching from Nikki carb to twin SU, I occasionally get a very small backfire a few seconds after switching off. Nothing to worry about.

What is your idle speed now? As Pete stated, if the idle spped was suddenly high, this would indicate that either the linkage or cable was snagging on something and preventing the throttle from returning fully to idle position.

KiwiDave wrote: ↑Sun Mar 21, 2021 9:42 pm condensation due to short operating times.

I wrote about that Dave.
Allways drive with water in the oil will destroy the seals. Oiltemperature above 90 ° C normally help to get the water out off the oilpan and the exhaust.

KiwiDave wrote: ↑Sun Mar 21, 2021 9:42 pm The deposits on the dipstick and the oil filler cap could most likely be condensation due to short operating times. Do you see any tubes on or at the base of the oil filler neck? These tubes should be connected to a vacuum source and their purpose is to prevent the build up of condensation and ensure that crankcase gasses are vented in an environmentally safe manner.

Since switching from Nikki carb to twin SU, I occasionally get a very small backfire a few seconds after switching off. Nothing to worry about.

What is your idle speed now? As Pete stated, if the idle spped was suddenly high, this would indicate that either the linkage or cable was snagging on something and preventing the throttle from returning fully to idle position.

HI Dave, the idle speed appears to have settled at 1100 to 1200.
I think you are probably right about the snagging causing the high revs as the problem didn't replicate itself today.
I will have to check what tubes are are connected at the base of the oil filler cap tomorrow.
Maybe i should change oil and filter ASAP?

Bit late to this party but....

* 1100 - 1200 is correct for an Elford, they idle higher than a stock FB

* You're missing the throttle assist spring, I'll post a photo of it tomorrow.... 2 minute job to fit it and you don't even need any spanners.... that will make the revs shut down when you release the throttle

* The Elford set up with the single HIF44 SU is the most reliable 1st gen setup I've ever come across, once it's working you won't have to mess with it.

* This car has done less than 1000 miles in the last 10 yrs.... no wonder you're getting condensation in the engine. If you don't know when the oil was last changed I'd change the oil and the filter then get it out on the road and put some miles on it.... the best preventative maintenance you can have!
Give it a good drive and get it nice and hot..... and make it go a bit, get it on the boost.... it'll do it good.

ian65 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 21, 2021 10:19 pm Bit late to this party but....

* 1100 - 1200 is correct for an Elford, they idle higher than a stock FB

* You're missing the throttle assist spring, I'll post a photo of it tomorrow.... 2 minute job to fit it and you don't even need any spanners.... that will make the revs shut down when you release the throttle

* The Elford set up with the single HIF44 SU is the most reliable 1st gen setup I've ever come across, once it's working you won't have to mess with it.

Thanks Ian but where do I get one?
Also what do you think of the oil that seems to have traces of water ingression?

Ask Dwayne if he had changed the oil, or knows when it was last changed first aye. He may have only just done it?

Hobbawobba wrote: ↑Sun Mar 21, 2021 10:35 pm Ask Dwayne if he had changed the oil, or knows when it was last changed first aye. He may have only just done it?

I did ask Dwayne to give me details of the work he had done but not got it yet.
Will chase him

The throttle spring on the SU isn't strong enough to snap the throttle shut.... at worst the revs will stay high, at best they will shut off but you will have a light throttle pedal with no 'feel' to it.....
You need this additional spring...



you can see it here on my previous Elford too...

The other area to be checked is the SU Dashpot, it takes a light oil, In other vehicles that used SUs 3 in ! (not spray) was always a good fall back, Ian will know what to use/correct level as this will effect the carb as well, Google/YouTube "SU Dashpot oil" this will explain & show you how to maintain. The great thing about the Internet (Forum/Google/YouTube) is that someone has taken the time to explain & film most if not all procedures effecting our cars.
Mixed spring sizes are freely available in Halfrauds/Ebay:-

https://www.google.com/search?q=Mixed+a ... e&ie=UTF-8