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You are amazing

Moomin wrote: ↑Sun May 28, 2023 8:25 pm O

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You are amazing

Hey Adam,
I just got my new v5 listing historic vehicle,
so it seems the letter from Mazda is accepted as proof of build date
Steve.

In my quest to make the bloody thing run, I've now gone back to a hugh pressure fuel pump and a malpassi fuel regulator to stop it blowing past the float.

I've reset set the carb again and fitted an AEM Wideband AFR, according the Australian rotary forum it should idle around 12-13 with wide open edging towards 14.7. Rich is best the consensus says.

After letting get nice and hot few twists of the screws and it idles happily at about 950rpm and 12.8 - 13 on the AFR.

Coolant gauge and fuel work again but now the voltage one doesn't and I'm only getting battery voltage at the alternator, I'm assuming it's not being "excited" so that's on the next list.

I also stole Porters2 idea and relocated the fogs into the rear cluster (thanks for the tip)

My haynes manual wiring diagrams seem completely unrelated (colour wise) to the car.

Is there a wiring diagram for a series 2 '83 floating about? Got to solve the charging issue!

Here's what she looks like under the bonnet now

you have your afr's mixed up.

You want 14-15 at idle and cruise, 12.8 to 13.2 at WOT, and gentle acceleration somewhere in the middle.

You can keep both reverse lights with a fog light with a dual filament LED that does red/white lights.

Oh and lower number is richer, higher number is weaker/leaner

gt_james wrote: ↑Wed Jun 21, 2023 9:00 am you have your afr's mixed up.

You want 14-15 at idle and cruise, 12.8 to 13.2 at WOT, and gentle acceleration somewhere in the middle.

Tbh I probably shouldn't even bother until the alternator is out putting a charge voltage.

Think I'll get it tuned on the dyno around the corner, once I've sort the alternator to charging. It pops the "engine" fuse in the fuse box even a 30amp

Some progress!

I found the issue with the alternator, previous owner syndrome.

The main feed from the fuse box to the alternator had a random earth linked into it. Why I don't know. Removed and lo and behold, it works, output at 13.8v, good enough.

I've also binned the very dead and rat eatten original seats, and replaced them with some Suburu ones, little modern but better than sitting on the floor!

Everything seems to function as it should, apart from idling. Still can't get a decent cold start, idles, lumpy, dies, idles lumpy, smoothly oh oh nope stalls. I will beat it, eventually! Then MOT time.

After much faffing...

Fuel tank pickup replaced
Main needle replaced (carb had wrong one in)
Brake master replaced
Brake servo repaired (what a crap job that is, never seen a servo completely full of brake fluid!)

MOT passed

Daily driving it until it explodes

Moomin wrote: ↑Tue Nov 07, 2023 10:10 am After much faffing...

Fuel tank pickup replaced
Main needle replaced (carb had wrong one in)

Which needle did you use ?
Elford used xw61t and I replaced mine with the equivalent one a BFS.
Steve.

BFS

But it still runs a little lean on cruise according to the AFR 15.8

WOT shifts it leans out to misfire, which is probably the dampener not dropping fast enough, fast drop is next test.

Then maybe start removing a little off the needle while spinning it in a lathe with some fine wet and dry.

All fun and games