www.RX7fb.com

Just adding a bit more to this topic for reference. On UK models the warning light strip contains these items:
From left; brake fluid low, coolant low, washer bottle low, stop lamp failure, charging failure, oil low, fog lights on, headlamps (flash as raised and lowered).

With the ignition on, this should appear:
If I've mis-described anything, please post up

I'm sure GT_James was asking me about this the other week. It has been so long since I've seen mine to remember though

It was a PM question from GT_James that prompted me to post the above

Pinout (UK spec models) for the two, multi-pin connectors, looking from the back of the cluster, the left hand connector has 11 pins. Working from the "break" at the ~7 o'clock position and working clockwise:

Pin 1 if batt here AND ground on Pin 7, coolant buzzer sounds
Pin 2, when batt applied, illuminates right turn indicator lamp
Pin 3 when batt applied, illuminates left turn indicator lamp
Pin 4 & 5 supply batt and ground to the cluster illumination lamps
Pin 6 input signal from ignition to tacho (~40-220Hz pulses)
Pin 7 if grounded AND batt on Pin 1, coolant buzzer sounds
Pin 8 if grounded, oil level warning lamp illuminates
Pin 9 if batt here, fog light warning lamp illuminates
Pin 10 if batt here, main beam warning lamp illuminates
Pin 11 if batt here, headlamp motor lamp illuminates

The right hand muti-connector has 12 pins, working from the "break" at ~7 o'clock position and working clockwise:

Pin 1 if ground here, washer fluid level light illuminates
Pin 2 if ground here, brake stop lamp failure lamp operates
Pin 3 UNSURE, alternator charging light??
Pin 4 ground for tacho
Pin 5 oil pressure sensor (resistance to ground)
Pin 6 if batt here, heated rear window lamp illuminates
Pin 7 temperature sensor (resistance to ground)
Pin 8 hard wired to pin 4
Pin 9 if batt here, fog light warning lamp illuminates
Pin 10 if ign on, batt voltage here
Pin 11 if ground here, brake fluid warning lamp operates
Pin 12 if ground here, coolant level light illuminates

There may be some errors in there - above gleaned by tracing a cluster and applying signals/voltages. happy to be corrected.

That is most useful, did you come across the trigger for the Over Rev Buzzer, mine has never worked despite checking pins etc?

DKWW2000 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2024 4:07 pm That is most useful, did you come across the trigger for the Over Rev Buzzer, mine has never worked despite checking pins etc?

Pete, 5th gear 7500 U/min on german highway with a working buzzer is not what you want. I am solder a switch before the buzzer. No real rotary enthusiast needs a buzzer.

That is some awesome info there aye. Definitely handy if anyone is questioning or having issues on their setup!

DKWW2000 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 20, 2024 4:07 pm That is most useful, did you come across the trigger for the Over Rev Buzzer, mine has never worked despite checking pins etc?

See my 2nd post in this topic Pete. In my case, the buzzer did not work due to corrosion between a bolt washer and the copper track on the cluster PCB. The buzzer has 12 pos via the ignition switch on one side and the other side goes to ground via an output from the tacho when revs over 7,000rpm. There is a variable resistor on the tacho which MAY alter the trigger point, but as my test tacho worked correctly, I haven't tried to adjust it to see what effect it has.

Thanks Malcolm,
I will take it out again & test the points mentioned

Thanks Malc, before I had the dash lamps on with key in ignition position, however they were pretty dim.

After doing some work on the car recently, the first time I tried it, the lamps were brighter, then after that off completely. I must have a bad connection somewhere in the engine bay that I have disturbed, but not sure where! There was a relay added to the wiring that doesn't look original, and I thought was for the horn, as it was next to the factory horn relay, but will investigate further.

Also I never had a working oscillator, and whilst working on the car I took it off completely. The spade terminals have snapped off and very corroded inside, hopefully there might be an off the shelf oscillator available and I could re instate it! believe it controls low oil and low water level buzzer.

I've done a little bit of reading, and it seems that the dash warning lamps all have 12v fed, and all have a common earth to the "L" side of the 2 pin connector in the back of the alternator.

When the alternator is not spinning, this is an earth, so the circuits for all the warning lamps (that malcom liste above, not every single one) is completed. When the alternator is spinning, this L terminal must go open circuit not connected to earth, so the lamps go out. I have done some work on the engine loom which has this 2 pin connector on, so my first check will be to ensure I have continuity on Pin L to the body side of the harness through the sub harness!

Another issue for later is the oscillator, which apparently causes the buzzer in the cluster to sound when there is low coolant or oil, my car does have an oscillator fitted, by the battery and looks stock, but have never had the buzzer working for low oil or coolant. The oscillator I have appears to be corroded out and damaged, but Malcom didn't seem to think it was necessary to use?