KIMI 2 - 1983 Series 2

[DB RX63]

It is probably from the threaded boss where the oil line is connected, they tend to get over tightened, split then leak.

I had the same issue on my Elford. I got it repaired by welding a new boss onto the rad, a decent ally fabrication company can do this for you. Always use an ally washer, copper is too hard.

[ian65]

s2 oil coolers are thin on the ground and pricey.... FC or TII coolers are the way to go...

viewtopic.php?f=23&t=506

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[Casey]

Thanks for the advice guys. The connectors are sound, no leaks in that area. There is a slight leak somewhere in the matrix in the area near the big dent, bottom in pic below (maybe that's a clue ). I'm going to try and keep things as OEM as possible, so will see if a local rad repair specialist can do anything;

http://www.colchesterradiatorspecialists.com/ (CRS)

I've just spoken to Paul at CRS and agreed to take the rad down for him to look at this pm. TBH, the rad is a bit of a mess! The core is shagged, but maybe end tanks salvageable? Maybe re-core? I've no idea, so let's see what they think....

[Casey]

Oil cooler now with CRS to rebuild. Should take about a week to do.

Cost was somewhat higher than I'd hoped, but as the guys there gave me some confidence in their workmanship - loads of great looking vintage rads to be seen - I decided to support what looks to be a good local business, rather than waste time seeking to save a few quid somewhere else.

[A7RXY]

Malcolm I phoned them up when I was looking to have my rad rebuilt, but like you I decided to use a local guy in Romford. It's like you say use the locals or they may not be there when you need them.
Good luck
Dibs

[Casey]

Whilst awaiting the return of the oil cooler I've popped out as many dents as I can on the undertray and it's had the full POR15 prep and two coats of Grey POR 15 gloss.

Whilst that was drying, I started to work on the rust on the chassis rails, pic before I started (luckily only surface rust at the moment):





I was thinking it would be a lot easier to access the front section of the rail if I could remove the front bumper assembly. However, the clip on attachments each side look challenging (the other fixings seem OK to remove):

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Anyone unclipped these before with success? Any tips on technique? It looks like a zip-tie around the clip to compress the four lugs might work? Else cut them off and hope I can find some replacements....

[ian65]

leave these clips on Malcolm and undo the bumper irons from the bodywork at the front of the car.... I thinks there's 4 bolts ( 2 each side) from memory and the bumper should then wriggle off the clips at each end. ( and clip back on when you come to put it back on again.) The awkward bolts are the 4 little ones that secure the bumper to the valance, they tend to rust onto their clips.

[ian65]

see here when I took mine off...
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2174&start=180


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[Casey]

Brilliant, those pics help a lot

Thanks Ian, I didn't realise the bumper would come off the sides in that way. I'll give it a go

[ian65]

if you unscrew the grill. you will be able to access the bolts that fix the bumper irons to the chassis... don't forget to undo the hose to the washers!