TWiR 1986 S3 TWR

codge · Post by **codge** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 10:32 pm

Looking at that a 1/8th" drill to get a hole in the blind threaded leftover, then a stud extractor. That's what I would try first.

KiwiDave · Post by **KiwiDave** » Thu Mar 12, 2015 11:51 pm

codge wrote:Looking at that a 1/8th" drill to get a hole in the blind threaded leftover

LOL. I had to find a conversion chart to see what 1/8th" is in new money. Turns out it's 3.175mm so a 3mm drill will do fine then. I considered using a left handed drill bit to aid the process or will a standard HSS bit suffice?

TOOL · Post by **TOOL** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 8:45 am

Hi mate,

I'll have to cop to that

I hate those sump bolts. You've got to get them tight enough to stop the sump leaking but without damaging the piss weak bolts.
I think I'm gonna put some studs in my next motor.

Drill a hole into them like Codge said, then try stud extractors:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PIECE-PCE-D ... 257258d770

You can get away with the odd missing bolt in the sump though.

ian65 · Post by **ian65** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:50 am

Dont buy those stud extractors, I've got a set of those, they're useless.... Buy or borrow a decent set

Lucky · Post by **Lucky** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 10:44 am

Yeah, cheap stud extractors are a false economy. They're case hardened which makes them very brittle and when (not if) they snap in the bolt, they're then impossibly hard to drill out

You may well find just the heat from drilling the bolt is enough to free it anyway. I've never used this style of extractor but they have a reputation for being more robust than the threaded type; http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/s ... ractor-set

TOOL · Post by **TOOL** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 1:25 pm

Don't blame the tools

Lucky · Post by **Lucky** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 1:55 pm

No, blame whoever barbarianised those bolts in the first place

I've owned and worked on '80s Kawasakis, there's nothing I don't know about extracting fasteners from inaccesible orifices where they've cold-welded themselves into a horrible fused lump, lol. I'd rather pay someone to spark-erode that bolt out of the hole than try to drill a snapped stud extractor out of it

TOOL · Post by **TOOL** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 2:27 pm

Yabba dabba doo!

Spark erosion is your friend.

spirit r · Post by **spirit r** » Fri Mar 13, 2015 4:42 pm

Repair it with helicoil, nearly the same as this set: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Gewinde-Reparatu ... 0753637475

: SV100129.JPG (171.64 KiB) Viewed 3198 times

codge · Post by **codge** » Fri Mar 20, 2015 6:36 pm

KiwiDave wrote:
codge wrote:Looking at that a 1/8th" drill to get a hole in the blind threaded leftover
LOL. I had to find a conversion chart to see what 1/8th" is in new money. Turns out it's 3.175mm so a 3mm drill will do fine then. I considered using a left handed drill bit to aid the process or will a standard HSS bit suffice?

Any HSS bit.....it's the stud extactor that puts the left hand bite into the drilled hole. The more you turn anticlock the more they tighten up and the flukes bite into the remaining screw material to unscrew it out.
But the extractors can break easily (they're hardened steel), so as said buy quality.

You need an extractor that's the right size for the hole/material you're extracting. A small/medium one in this case. A set will be best.
Gently tap the extractor inwards into the drilled hole to seat the flukes before unscrewing. This will help loosen the remaining bit of thread as well.
Some jobs like this one respond to gentle handiwork rather than brute force bash bash.

www.RX7fb.com

TWiR 1986 S3 TWR

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